So Long and Thanks for All the Fish Sauce

After two very pleasant weeks in Vietnam, we head to Cambodia tomorrow.

In no particular order, here are the top five things from Vietnam that I wish I could take with me:

  1. An endless supply of dragon fruit, mangoes, rambutan,and pineapples. The fruit in Nha Trang may still be the best I have ever eaten.
  2. Squeaky sand from Phu Quoc
  3. Nem cua be on the streets in Hanoi (delicious crab spring rolls)
  4. Gordon the Gecko, who was kind enough to share his living space with us at Mai House Resort in Phu Quoc
  5. Chili lemongrass shrimp, especially the rendition at Sea Star

Squeaky Sand

Believe it or not, the sand here in Phu Quoc actually squeaks when you walk on it! (We’ve heard about the same phenomenon at Nai Thon Beach on Phuket, but hadn’t experienced it before we arrived here.)

Here’s a demo from Kenny, my favorite squeaky sand model:

Sometimes 30 = 200

We are luxuriating at a serene beach on Phu Quoc Island for a few days before making our way back towards Thailand for AJWS orientation. Our original plan for the trip back north was:

… a boat from Phu Quoc to Rach Gia, and then another boat up the Mekong into Cambodia. Stop in Phnom Penh and potentially Battambang.

This was, of course, before we had done much research related to boats up the Mekong. After doing some reading, it turns out it takes almost a full day to even reach the Mekong. We decided that a shorter boat ride from Phu Quoc to Ha Tien and then a few days in Kampot, Cambodia would be much more pleasant. We spent some time scouring the Lonely Planet and various web forums today for information on boats, Cambodian visas, border crossing process, and overland transport to Kampot. After sketching out how we might orchestrate the border crossing, we took a stroll out to the main road from the beach and saw this:

John will get you to Cambodia
Easy transport options from Phu Quoc to various destinations in Cambodia

So we’ll probably just scrap all of those plans and book transport from here to Kampot with John for ~$30/person on Monday.

Of course, none of this research would be necessary if there were a boat from here to Kampot. What should be a 45 minute trip will be a six hour multi-transport adventure, thanks to international borders and historic territorial disputes.

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Kenny pointing out the absurdity of our six hour border crossing trip to a destination only 30km away

After our two nights in Kampot, we’ll have two more in Phnom Penh and then we fly to Chiang Mai via Bangkok.

Dragon Fruit

Lauren and I were first exposed to dragon fruit during our 2007 trip to Vietnam. The fluorescent pink alien-looking fruits were an instant curiosity for us at the local markets. While scary on the outside, they are remarkably easy to eat. The leathery looking skin is quite soft, and once cut open you can eat all of the innards. The flesh is usually white, though sometimes bright red, and contains little black edible seeds like a kiwi. The taste is very clean and slightly sweet, with the seeds adding a nutty overtone. And as we learned in our cooking class, the best dragon fruit have the spikes poking straight out and bright skin.

Early on, one of our guesthouse proprietors wisely advised us to eat them chilled, and since then we’ve been hooked. Chilling a dragon fruit helps bring out its natural flavors, and is extra refreshing on the beach.

We have used dragon fruit as travel food (they don’t bruise and all you need is our handy spork for eating), in fruit shakes, and to anchor fruit plates. Variations we’ve enjoyed are eating them raw with a little lime juice, and mixing them with pineapple or mango in a fruit shake. Some may consider durian the “king of tropical fruits”, but in my mind the award goes to dragon fruit.

Dragon fruit at the local market
A basketful of dragon fruit

Lauren and her dragon fruit
Lauren showing off the dragon fruit we packed for our Phuket to Lanta boat trip

Fruit plate
Most of our fruit plates on the beach have included a dragon fruit

Enjoying a dragon fruit shake
Enjoying a dragon fruit shake in Luang Prabang

Passion Fruit

I’ve had passion fruit numerous times in juice form, and occasionally in ice cream. But it was only when we were in Cambodia a few years ago that I had a passion fruit in the flesh. I hadn’t seen one again until our return to southeast Asia. They are all over Nha Trang and we’ve averaged about one a day. The more wrinkled they are on the surface, the riper and sweeter the innards (though still quite tart). Inside, they are almost entirely fluorescent yellow juice, with small edible black seeds. Bring along a spoon.

Passion fruit

Kenny enjoying a passion fruit

Crazy Kim’s Gym

We’ve been doing our best to keep in shape while on the road, and our running shoes, yoga mats, and Aqua Bells have helped immensely with that. But sometimes nothing beats a good gym workout.

During our last trip to Nha Trang, back in December 2007, Kenny and I stumbled upon Crazy Kim’s Gym. Almost two weeks into our Vietnam/Cambodia tour without a single workout, Crazy Kim’s was a godsend.

With five nights in Nha Trang this time around, we opted for the three-visit punch card at Crazy Kim’s. At 150,000 VND (~$8), it’s a fantastic deal. The gym itself is small, but it has everything we need: a few treadmills, bicycles, various free weights, and a few weight machines. There are even aerobics and belly dancing classes a few days a week. We joined for an aerobics class this afternoon, and it was quite a workout! The instructor didn’t speak much English, but she used helpful claps to let us know when to switch exercises, and we did our best to follow along.

It turns out that the owner of Crazy Kim’s Gym (as well as the restaurant, bar and spa of the same name), Kimmy Le, is a Canadian-Vietnamese woman who donates a portion of her profits to combat pedophilia here in southern Vietnam. So when we work out at Crazy Kim’s, we not only burn calories, we burn them for a cause.

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Star Apple

Our first hotel in Nha Trang gave us a complimentary plate of tropical fruit every morning. This is one of the best things to include in a room for Kenny and Lauren, especially for a hotel that doesn’t serve breakfast. The first day, we recognized the rose apples and the mango, but the round green fruit was new to us. We cut it open and the inside was a little custardy, though not very good. We donated the second one to the Buddha shrine downstairs.

Tropical fruit plate

Later I was reading the Lonely Planet’s section on Vietnamese tropical fruits and realized that this was a star apple (they can also be purple or red). Today on our cooking class market tour, we saw a bunch of star apples and told Lam that we didn’t like it. She told us that Vietnamese love them, and bought some more for us to try. Turns out we had again tried a bad sample as our first fruit, and this star apple was much better. it was a little creamy but not mushy like the first one. It was a little reminiscent of a sugar apple, but not nearly as sweet and much easier to eat.

Star apple
When you slice open a star apple, you can see the seed pattern that inspires its name

Lanterns Cooking Class

One of the things I was excited about doing on our return visit to Vietnam was taking a Vietnamese cooking class. When we were in Hanoi, I did a bunch of research on the various options. Most of the ones in Hanoi got mixed reviews,  but there was one in Nha Trang, Lanterns,  that got consistent raves. It was also very reasonable at $14 for a 5 hour class (vs. 2-4 times that price in Hanoi). So this morning we took some time off from beach bumming and arrived at 9AM for our class. There were two other attendees, a nice Swedish couple, so it was a very intimate lesson.

The day began with a cyclo ride to the local market. Though we could have walked to the market in about 15 minutes, it was fun to indulge in our first ever cyclo ride without any haggling involved.

Cyclo ride

When we got to the market our teacher, Lam, gave us a bunch of tips for shopping for ingredients. For example, cucumbers should be dark and not too soft.

Lam showing how to compare carrots
Lam explaining that when buying carrots, you need to look at the core and only get ones with small stems (like the one on the right)

After we purchased rice paper wrappers, sweet soybean sauce, vegetables, fish and chicken, Lam treated us to freshly pressed sugar cane juice.  On our way out we went through the fruit section, where Lam told us how to choose:

  • dragonfruit – the spikes should be poking straight out and the skin should be bright fuschia
  • soursop – the skin shouldn’t be spiky and they shouldn’t be too big
  • mango – there are 3 different types of mangoes in Vietnam. The green ones are the prettiest and the biggest but don’t have much flavor. The yellow-green ones are a little smaller and sweeter. The best (and sweetest) are the smallest, slightly dirty-looking skinned ones. We bought two. :)

Finally equipped with all of the necessary ingredients, it was back to Lanterns to put on our aprons, roll up our sleeves, and get to work. First course: rice paper rolls.

First we sauteed the shrimp in coconut oil with ginger and shallots, and sliced them in half to make them thin enough for the rolls. Then we prepared the vegetables (shredded carrots, cucumbers sliced lengthwise, lettuce and Thai basil). The last step was the trickiest – assembling the rice paper rolls. Lam demonstrated how to wet the rice paper using a bowl of water and splashing the rice paper with your hand. Then you leave a little bit of rice paper hanging over the lip of the plate, add the veggies, roll partway and add the shrimp so that you can see them on the outside. She also taught us a flower garnish using a tomato top, basil, and hoisin sauce.

Lauren frying shrimp Spring rolls!
Cooking the shrimp and showing off the final product

After a brief intermission to enjoy our spring rolls, it was on to the main course: ginger chicken in clay pot.

The key thing about clay pot dishes is to allow lots of time for marinating and cooking. Usually you marinate the fish (or meat) overnight, and cook it slowly in the clay pot for 8 hours or so. We were on an accelerated schedule, so had to make some small compromises. We started marinating the chicken before embarking on spring rolls. The marination process entails putting garlic and shallots in the clay pot, followed by sliced onions, then chicken, ginger, chilies, and sauce. The sauce ingredients were 1 tbsp fish sauce, 1/2 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp stock, and 1 tbsp water. Before we put the covered pot on the stove we added water to fill half the pot. After the ingredients cooked (about 20 minutes), we uncovered the pot so that the sauce would reduce and clarify. The richness of the sauce is proportional to the amount it reduces, so you don’t want to rush this step.

Eating ginger chicken
mmmm….ginger….

Lam pulled a Martha Stewart and brought out sliced vegetables and a bowl of steamed rice from the kitchen and we had a leisurely lunch. After some relaxation it was time for dessert: banana spring rolls.

Banana spring rolls are a traditional Vietnamese dessert, though the recipe can be applied to anything from vegetables to fish and chips. First you mix together flour, water, and sugar for the main batter. Then you slice a banana in half, coat it lightly in the batter and drop it into a bowl of panko. Drop it into extremely hot oil, fry quickly so that the banana stays firm, and fish it out when it’s lightly brown. Add a scoop of ice cream and decorate with chocolate sauce.

Banana spring roll batter
Lam showing off the proper consistency of banana spring roll batter

Banana spring rolls
Dessert!

Overall, a very enjoyable experience. We left with a recipe book in hand, and by 2PM we were back on the beach!

Mangosteen

Kenny and I first tried a mangosteen on our last trip to Thailand, on Ko Phi Phi in December 2008. We had heard that the mangosteen was a serious contender for the title of Best Tropical Fruit Ever, and we were eager to understand the hype. Alas, the mangosteen that we tried was a bad sample. It was dried up on the inside and kind of chalky; we knew something was amiss.

We finally got another opportunity to try a mangosteen last week in Laos. Our Luang Prabang guesthouse was just around the corner from a sizable produce market, and one of the sellers had particularly delectable looking fruits. We picked up a bunch of tiny bananas, a mango, some rambutans, and one mangosteen to try. This first one was so good that we went back to the produce market for several more over the following days.

Mangosteens have a thick, coarse, purple-brown skin and are almost perfectly round. The fleshy fruit inside comes in sections and has a soft, almost marshmallow-y texture, like a very ripe mango. The taste is sweet with a touch of tart, and a little creamy, with a fuller flavor than the sugar apple.

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How much is that mangosteen in the bucket?

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My name is Mangosteen. Bruce Mangosteen.

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Bruce Mangosteen with his two brothers, Bill and Xavier

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Delicious mangosteen flesh

On our Vietnam Airlines flight from Hanoi to Nha Trang, we found an article in the in-flight magazine about traditional fruits used for offerings during Tet, the Vietnamese New Year. One of these is the mangosteen, which is popular in the south. According to the article:

These fruits are essential for offering plates. Choosing good mangosteens is not easy, so families feel proud to offer perfect mangosteens to their guests.

Hopefully we’ll find more delicious mangosteens available here in South Vietnam, given their apparent significance.

Hanoi Sunshine

It may be difficult to believe but, just like in Seattle, the sun does shine in Hanoi occasionally. We had a half day free before we needed to catch our taxi to the airport, so we decided to go frolic in the sunshine. No new sights for us today, we simply revisited a few places we had enjoyed last time were in Hanoi: Paris Deli, St. Joseph’s Cathedral, and the peaceful Temple of Literature, topped off by a stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake.

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We enjoyed a delicious pear tart and cappuccino (yay real coffee!) at Paris Deli before heading to the Temple of Literature via the Cathedral

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I had a reunion with a 1000-year-old boyfriend at the Temple of Literature

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Temple of Literature

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The entry gate at the Temple of Literature

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The Tortoise Temple on Hoan Kiem Lake

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Wedding photo shoot on Hoan Kiem Lake

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Following the examples of some locals out shooting photos on the lake, we took some glamour shots of our own