Monthly Archive for January, 2010

Mangosteen

Kenny and I first tried a mangosteen on our last trip to Thailand, on Ko Phi Phi in December 2008. We had heard that the mangosteen was a serious contender for the title of Best Tropical Fruit Ever, and we were eager to understand the hype. Alas, the mangosteen that we tried was a bad sample. It was dried up on the inside and kind of chalky; we knew something was amiss.

We finally got another opportunity to try a mangosteen last week in Laos. Our Luang Prabang guesthouse was just around the corner from a sizable produce market, and one of the sellers had particularly delectable looking fruits. We picked up a bunch of tiny bananas, a mango, some rambutans, and one mangosteen to try. This first one was so good that we went back to the produce market for several more over the following days.

Mangosteens have a thick, coarse, purple-brown skin and are almost perfectly round. The fleshy fruit inside comes in sections and has a soft, almost marshmallow-y texture, like a very ripe mango. The taste is sweet with a touch of tart, and a little creamy, with a fuller flavor than the sugar apple.

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How much is that mangosteen in the bucket?

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My name is Mangosteen. Bruce Mangosteen.

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Bruce Mangosteen with his two brothers, Bill and Xavier

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Delicious mangosteen flesh

On our Vietnam Airlines flight from Hanoi to Nha Trang, we found an article in the in-flight magazine about traditional fruits used for offerings during Tet, the Vietnamese New Year. One of these is the mangosteen, which is popular in the south. According to the article:

These fruits are essential for offering plates. Choosing good mangosteens is not easy, so families feel proud to offer perfect mangosteens to their guests.

Hopefully we’ll find more delicious mangosteens available here in South Vietnam, given their apparent significance.

Hanoi Sunshine

It may be difficult to believe but, just like in Seattle, the sun does shine in Hanoi occasionally. We had a half day free before we needed to catch our taxi to the airport for our flight to Nha Trang, so we decided to go frolic in the sunshine. No new sights for us today, we simply revisited a few places we had enjoyed last time were in Hanoi: Paris Deli, St. Joseph’s Cathedral, and the peaceful Temple of Literature, topped off by a stroll around Hoan Kiem Lake.

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We enjoyed a delicious pear tart and cappuccino (yay real coffee!) at Paris Deli before heading to the Temple of Literature via the Cathedral

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I had a reunion with a 1000-year-old boyfriend at the Temple of Literature

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Temple of Literature

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The entry gate at the Temple of Literature

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The Tortoise Temple on Hoan Kiem Lake

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Wedding photo shoot on Hoan Kiem Lake

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Following the examples of some locals out shooting photos on the lake, we took some glamour shots of our own

Who Are You?

Seen on a garage door on Hang Trong in the Hanoi old quarter, west of Hoan Kiem Lake:

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…I am Mr. Watermelon, nice to meet you. Have you met my cousin, Bruce Mangosteen?

Tam Coc

Today we took a day trip to Tam Coc and Hoa Lu, about 2 hours south of Hanoi. After Halong Bay it’s supposed to be the top day trip out of Hanoi. Hoa Lu was the capital of Vietnam from 968-1009, and Tam Coc is often dubbed the “inland Halong Bay”, or “Halong Bay on the rice paddies.”

We left Hanoi at 9AM and slogged through big city traffic for 2.5 hours to Hoa Lu. After seeing all of the pictures on Flickr and descriptions in the Lonely Planet, we were a bit underwhelmed by the citadel remains. It didn’t help that there was a bunch of construction in preparation for the 1000-year Hanoi anniversary celebrations.  On the plus side, it was peaceful and we got a few nice pictures of the ancient temples:

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King and queen at Hoa Lu

After Hoa Lu, we had the option of biking from the citadel to Tam Coc (~15km) or getting back on the bus (~25km of bumpy roads). Lauren and I decided to stretch our legs along the rice paddies and beautiful mountain scenery. Along the way we passed a few small villages where the farmers live, and then met up with the rest of the group by Tam Coc. Well worth the few extra dong for bike rentals.

Biking from Hoa Lu to Tam Coc
Biking past rice paddies to Tam Coc

When we rejoined the group, everyone was already out on boats in Tam Coc. Our guide said it was no problem if we took our time, so we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and then got on a boat for the main event. Our paddler rowed us along the Ngo Dong river for two hours, past the rock formations and through the three caves that give Tam Coc its name. It was a relaxing boat trip, and our paddler was very friendly and refrained from the heavy hawking that usually plagues Tam Coc visitors. We also got to be up close to river workers catching fish and planting rice.

Overall, Tam Coc was a nice trip, but far less impressive than Halong Bay. The two hour drive each way is also a bit draining, so if you have an extra day in Hanoi you might find it more relaxing to hang out in cafes and take in the Vietnamese street life.

Boat ride on Tam Coc
Cruising among karst formations

Paddling with feet
Cycling meets rowing

Life on the river
People on a boat

Hanoi Museum Day

This morning we were greeted by the dark clouds and light rain typical of Hanoi in winter. Fortunately there are lots of good museums here. Since we covered the major sights (including a water puppet show and a visit to Uncle Ho) on our 2007 visit, today we decided to check out some lesser visited museums.

First stop was Hoa Lo, more commonly known to us Americans as the “Hanoi Hilton”. Turns out that there is indeed a hotel there now (it’s not a Hilton, though I read that “a Hilton Hotel in Hanoi opened in 1999 and was carefully named the Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel”). However, a part of the prison was preserved and turned into a museum. It’s a small museum, but was quite interesting and gives some perspective on the various nasty stages of prison life run by the French and Vietnamese. Like many museums in Vietnam, the narrative is all about colonial aggression. The introduction talks about how the French displaced an entire village to make space for the prison. The name “Hoa Lo” means portable earthen stove, the product produced by the displaced village.

Inside are rooms showing male and female living quarters, medical reports on inmate conditions, and torture devices ranging from knives to boxing gloves. In the final room is a piece on the American War, with a brand new case showing off John McCain’s outfit from the time of his capture. The signage hasn’t been updated for awhile and still reads “[John McCain] is currently a candidate in the 2008 election.”

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While I was awaiting a guillotine sentencing, Lauren was trying to break in and save me

Boxing gloves as punishment
These boxing gloves were used to torture female prisoners

John McCain flight suit
Flight suit used by John McCain when flying his A4E Skyhawk that was shot down in 1967

In the afternoon we headed to the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum. They have a great collection of lacquer-based art (paintings and statues), ancient stone sculptures, and ethnic minority artwork. No cameras allowed in the art museum, so no photos.

After the close encounters of Hoa Lo and highbrow art, it was time to slum it with the locals for dinner. We got some street food in the Old Quarter and washed it down with some liquid refreshment at a Bia Hoi.

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Lounging on a tiny plastic stool, enjoying my beer

Compare and Contrast

Exhibit A – Visa process for our current trip to Vietnam:

  1. Fill out a small online form and PayPal $20 per person to an agent in Hanoi.
  2. Print the approval letter you receive 2 days later.
  3. Bring printout, a passport photo, and $25 in cash to the Visa on Arrival counter when you land in Hanoi. There is no line; receive visa immediately.

Total cost: $45 per person

Exhibit B – Visa process for our last trip to Vietnam:

  1. A myriad of trials and tribulations summarized by my wife in only 1311 words here; including two round trips of Express Mail postage, visa fees, and emotional stress due to perceived loss of passports.

Total cost: ~$100 per person + severe risk of PTSD

If planning a trip to Vietnam, allow me to recommend the visa on arrival route. It is both cheaper and more convenient. We are now safely and legally in Vietnam.

Leaving Laos Vegas

I can’t take any credit for the title, that one’s all Matt… but he’s clearly not the only one to come up with this joke. As seen in the Lao Airlines magazine:

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What happens in VIentiane, stays in Vientiane

We are in the Luang Prabang airport, waiting to board our flight for Hanoi. Our current plan for the remaining weeks of our pre-volunteering holiday:

  • Two to four days in the Hanoi area, which will probably include some time in Ninh Binh and/or the national park nearby. We’ll skip Halong Bay because we’ve been there, and Sapa because it’s apparently quite cold there right now.
  • A few days in Nha Trang, because nine days in the Thai islands just wasn’t enough beach time.
  • A few days on Phu Quoc island for the same reason.
  • About two days in the Mekong Delta area as we make our way towards Cambodia (this may involve a night in Can Tho and another in Chau Doc, but we need to do more research).
  • One day in Phnom Penh before we fly to Chiang Mai to start orientation.

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Little Vid does Laos

Regular Vid was here back in 2004. Her avatar got to follow in her footsteps over 5 years later.

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Little Vid keeping the Buddhas company at Wat Si Saket in Vientiane

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Little Vid enjoying vegetarian dips at Tamarind in Luang Prabang

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Cleaning up after the feast

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Joining some mosaic friends on a walk through the mosaic forest at Wat Xiengthong in Luang Prabang

Tiger Trekking Triathlon III: Kayaking

On the second day of our Luang Prabang trek, we didn’t need to leave until 8:30, but we were up at 4AM. Turns out that while roosters may indeed crow at dawn, there’s no guarantee that they won’t crow before dawn.

After breakfast, we packed up and hiked for about an hour to Tad Sae waterfall… which didn’t have very much water in it. Then we hopped into another boat, which took us back to Elephant Village, where we started our kayak trip down the Nam Khan and back to Luang Prabang. The river was beautiful, and kayaking was fun, but I was exhausted. About an hour into our three hour kayak trip, I was ready to be finished. But we slogged through it, and when we arrived back in LP we were ready for well-deserved showers, clean clothes, and massages.

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Kayaking down the Nam Khan. I look exhausted because I am.

Tiger Trekking Triathlon II: Hiking

After lunch, we hopped in a small motor boat and rode to the starting point of our hike. On the way, we observed some of the daily activities of locals who make their livelihoods from the river. We disembarked at a small Khmu village to begin our trek. Our guide explained that the Khmu people are an ethnic minority with origins in Cambodia, and that their language was very similar to Khmer. He taught us how to say “hello” in Khmu (I’ve already forgotten), and as we walked through the village we waved and said hello to the the many kids hanging out and playing sports (our guide explained that they were on a school holiday).

Then we spent the afternoon hiking through beautiful countryside and a couple of Hmong villages. The first Hmong village we passed through was a new settlement, where a number of families had recently relocated for better proximity to water and a school. We passed through the older villages that the families had migrated from as well, where the current inhabitants still need to walk for 30 minutes to the nearest stream and over an hour to the nearest school. One of the most interesting people we observed was a blacksmith, making knives outside his house using very rustic materials.

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30 minutes walk for fresh water, but what a view!

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Making knives

After three hours or so of hiking in the hot Laos sun, we arrived at Hoify, the Khmu village where we’d be spending the night. Hoify is a large-ish village of about 70 families, mostly living in thatched huts with palm leaf roofs. We spent a few minutes resting our weary bodies, and then took a walk around the village to check it out. Unfortunately the language barrier made it difficult to connect with the people we saw around the village, but many of the kids were friendly and seemed rather curious about the strange Westerners spending a night in their town.

We also got to watch the local boys play a very exciting game called ka-taw, which was sort of a cross between volleyball and soccer. Players may use their heads, feet, knees, etc. to get the ball over the net. These boys had some fantastic moves, and Kenny decided to try his hand at sports photography while we  watched them play. We think that they may have even started pulling out some of their fancier stunts once they realized we were watching. ;)

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When ka-taw becomes an Olympic sport, the kid in the green shorts will lead Laos to victory

While the boys played, many women and young girls worked hard, carrying food and buckets of water, and making brooms to sell. Our guide told us that this gender disparity was a common theme among the ethnic minority groups in Laos – women do most of the hard work while men work shorter hours and get to spend more time relaxing.

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Drying leaves to use for brooms

Hoify Village, like many others near Luang Prabang, only has power in the evenings, when they turn on their generator. Much of the town congregates in one of the larger houses to crowd around a television playing Thai and Lao karaoke VCDs. Visitors pay a small admission fee at the door. We joined to watch a few music videos, and our guide treated us to our first taste of lao-lao (it tastes like strong sake).

Next event: kayaking.

See you in the next post…