Tag Archive for 'burma'

Why is Western Veg Food So Boring?

During our stays in India and among Burmese people in Thailand this year, Kenny and I have often observed that vegetarian food is so much more interesting – and delicious – in communities where eating meat is not the norm. In the case of our South Indian friends, the refusal to eat meat stems from religious observance, while for our Burmese friends (especially the tribe with whom I was working), it’s simply a result of the high price of meat. Both cuisines feature some of the best vegetarian food I have ever consumed.

This observation was reinforced several times this week, when I heard many of my carnivorous friends proclaim that South Indian cuisine has revolutionized their idea of what non-meat food could be. All of the meals we’ve eaten in Bangalore – especially those at Archana’s parents’ house – have been spicy, varied, and spectacularly delicious. South Indians just make incredible use of lentils, beans, whole grains, tomatoes, okra, coconuts, jackfruit, chilies, and even plain old potatoes.

What a contrast after the steamed broccoli, carrots, and cauliflower that were often served as a side dish in London and environs. Bleh. Even Seattle, which features a relatively creative restaurant scene and a plethora of ethnic restaurants, is fairly boring on the vegetarian front. I’d kill for a real South Indian restaurant.

Getting a Burmese Education

Today was my last official day in the office. As we have done many times over the past three months, one of my colleagues (we’ll call her Q) and I spent a long time lingering after the lunch plates had been cleared and talking about Burma.

Q told me that when she was a high school student in Burma, she knew that her country’s educational system was broken and she wanted it to change, but her dissatisfaction with the government did not reach any further at that point. Later, when she was studying at university, her father told her that she was unlikely to learn anything of value from her regular coursework, and advised her to seek out training from a private tutor on the side. Q’s tutor was a well-informed man, and a former member of the democracy movement. Every day he told humorous stories that kept the students entertained and engaged. Only when Q arrived home after class and had time to reflect did she realize the important lessons that her teacher was relating through these stories.

Through this informal education, Q started to realize that the world outside Burma was likely quite different, and she developed a strong interest in moving to Thailand. J, a high school classmate of hers, had invited her to come to Thailand back when they finished Grade 10. J’s mother was already in Thailand and had founded an organization where they could continue their education and work for the democracy movement. At the time, Q had opted to attend university instead, but when she finished she knew that it was time to accept J’s offer.

When she arrived in Thailand, Q learned things that shook the foundation of her entire educational experience – concepts like human rights, women’s rights, and democracy. It was the first time she had ever been taught that she was afforded basic rights simply by virtue of being human, and that the practices of the  Burmese government were not acceptable. She learned that as a woman, she could take an equal role in society and that she need not be subservient to her future husband. And it was her first exposure to the governing systems of other countries, and the idea that people in other parts of the world could speak and live freely.

After completing an internship program at our organization, Q enrolled in an advanced women’s leadership course. She then returned here and took on a leadership role in our organization.

Q values the time that she spent learning with her teacher while she was in university, but she can’t help feeling some jealousy of our organization’s recent crop of interns, none of whom attended university before migrating to Thailand. Q arrived at age 25; some of our interns are only 17 when they get here, including Q’s sister, who came last year. Many of them did not finish high school. These young women have even more time to gain exposure to the world outside Burma and experience working for their community. They also have access to excellent educational programs in Thailand. On the other hand, they have less firsthand experience with life and education inside Burma, and less exposure to veterans of the democracy movement. Either way, their dedication to continuing their education is admirable, and the diversity of perspectives that they bring to our organization is a tremendous asset.

Burma: To Go or Not To Go

When we started planning our pre-volunteering travel around Southeast Asia, we strongly considered including Burma on our itinerary. Deciding whether to go to Burma is a complex enough issue to which Lonely Planet devotes an entire chapter, covering the arguments for and against visiting. One main argument against going is that you will be funding the junta with your tourist dollars. Another is that the government will only allow tourists to see the beautiful pagodas, lakes, ruins, and museums, and you will not see how people truly live in Burma.

We also talked to our AJWS coordinator, who told us that "AJWS doesn’t condone it [travel to Burma], but we can’t tell you what to do." After debating both sides for awhile, we decided not to visit Burma during our pre-AJWS travels, mostly because we were unsure how our NGO colleagues would feel about it.

Fast forward a few months. Today was my last day volunteering in Mae Hong Son, and this afternoon I had a long talk with my NGO director about travel to Burma. He feels emphatically that foreigners should visit Burma. On the question of money, he said:

The government doesn’t care about your money. They have China…and Russia. They just care about power. By going to Burma you can see how the people really live and start separating government propaganda from reality.”

On the question of will we just see what the junta wants us to see, his thoughts were:

Do your research before you go. Foreigners are very smart. They read about the situation before they go and they are careful when they are there. If you are smart and tricky, you will be able to see the true Burma.

I asked him were we should go when we visit Burma. He told me that we have to see Rangoon. He also mentioned that should visit Naypyidaw, the new capital erected by Than Shwe, to experience the alternate life/reality that the generals lead.

I was curious if he thought that I’d be able to visit some of the ethnic-minority border states. He thought it would be okay, but warned me, “Keep your eyes open. As a foreigner you will definitely be watched by the government.”

I do really want to go to Burma to see the people and situation that I’ve read so much about, and I feel that the experiences and conversations we’ve had in Thailand have provided us with some necessary preparations for such a visit. Now that they have visa on arrival, it’s easier to arrange for travel, but of course we are getting on a plane to the US this Tuesday. While we will have to wait until our next trip to Southeast Asia to see Burma, hopefully we can plan our trip at a time when our new Burmese friends will be in their hometowns and they can show us many of the places they’ve told us stories about.

Border Math

My co-worker just educated me on how immigration works along the Thai/Burma border (if one making a border crossing is pulled over by the Thai police):

  1. If everyone (including the driver) has valid papers, they are free to continue on their journey.
  2. If no one (including the driver) has valid papers, everyone is arrested and has to either pay bail of 2,000 Baht per-person (~$60) or spend 14 days in prison. Assuming they aren’t arrested again in the interim, they are refunded the 2,000 Baht once seven months have passed.
  3. If there is a mix of people with and without papers, everyone is still arrested. Those without papers have the same choice of 2,000 Baht bail or 14 days imprisonment. if there are passengers with papers, they have a much steeper payment to face in order to avoid a jail term of seven months. Negotiations start at 75,000 Baht ($2,250, a year’s salary in these parts), and can be lowered to 50,000 Baht. If the driver has papers, he’s in even deeper water as the facilitator of the undocumented immigrant trafficking.

Things We Will Miss

  • Easy Thai, especially Rarn P Dam, where Kenny eats lunch every weekday.
  • Super spicy delicious Burmese ethnic minority cuisine.
  • Mango and sticky rice.
  • Now that I mention it, mango with anything. Or mango with nothing.
  • Lychees, rambutans, and mangosteens.
  • Free community yoga twice a week.
  • Riding my bicycle everywhere and never worrying about traffic.
  • The fact that the highway, which runs right behind our apartment, generally has more joggers on it than cars.
  • Our co-workers, who have also become good friends.
  • Swimming in the Nam Pai on hot days.
  • Eating delicious fruits and vegetables every day that come from our own farm.
  • Living the easy life in our peaceful town, nestled in a beautiful valley.
  • Frogs, geckos, roosters, and other fun neighbors. Well, maybe not the roosters so much. They are pretty, but it will be nice to sleep in past 5am.
  • Drawing on our software engineering experience to contribute to the fight for democracy in Burma.

Kenny biking to Nai SoiLake wat

Mango and sticky riceNai Soi

Gorging on fruitThe farm

The Next Six Weeks

We have only 10 days left in Thailand. I know it will be extremely difficult to leave. On the one hand, I do feel a bit ready to move on from our small town. It is lovely, but after three months I certainly feel like I’ve seen what it has to offer. On the other hand, it will be very hard to leave my volunteer assignment. Not that I didn’t accomplish my goals – on the contrary, the staff and I have accomplished a lot more than we expected. I just know that I will miss them horribly and I want to continue helping them work for democracy in Burma. The separation will also be a poignant reminder that while I’ve been here helping them voluntarily, this cause is their life and they can’t just leave. In fact, they can’t really go anywhere.

Here is our plan for the next six weeks. As usual, it’s ridiculous and it involves a lot of flights:

  • Thailand: We have one more week volunteering in Mae Hong Son, then we head to New York (via Chiang Mai, Taipei, and San Francisco).
  • New York: We’ll be in New York for about a week for Kenny’s sister’s wedding. We have a bunch of errands to run — AJWS post-mortem at their office, get new India visas, get yellow fever shots for Uganda, etc. — but we’ll also get to spend time with family and friends while we’re there. My parents are also coming to the wedding. I’m excited to see my Dad again so soon, and I’ve promised to take my Mom on the Jewish tour of New York (Lower East Side, Brooklyn, etc.).
  • Boston: We will have four days in Boston to visit our dear friends Julie and Damian, and their newest addition, Sophie. A few friends from Seattle will be joining us.
  • London: On our way to India for Sean and Archana’s wedding, we arranged for a four-day "layover" in London. Kenny has never been to Stonehenge, so we will probably try to squeeze that in too. It will be a weird, very first-world tourist experience in the middle of this year of Global South adventures, but hopefully New York and Boston will help with the transition. I expect that we’ll spend more money during four days in London than we typically spend in four weeks here in Thailand.
  • Delhi: Delhi always seems to be our gateway to India. Gio is meeting us, and we’ll spend a couple of days showing him the sights (and we need to take him for a celebratory meal at Indian Accent). Then we plan to make a day trip to Agra, since we promised ourselves we’d see the Taj Mahal this time. It’s going to be HOT, but I suppose it can’t be much worse than April in Northern Thailand
  • Bangalore: The main event for us in India is Sean and Archana’s wedding in Bangalore, which promises to be an all-out traditional Tam-Bram affair. After the wedding, we’re all heading to a Jungle Retreat in the Nilgiris for a few days.
  • Kampala: On June 11, we’ll fly from Bangalore to Dubai to Addis Ababa to Entebbe, in order to start our next volunteer assignment, which is a technology for agriculture project, based in Kampala.

Public Speaking and Private Emotions

The staff of my NGO asked me to provide training on public speaking, so I put together a four-part course for them. I included sections on “speaking style” – body, voice, eye contact, hand gestures – and “speaking substance” – how to structure the content of a presentation. In session III we added PowerPoint.

For sessions II and IV, each member of the staff (and I) delivered short presentations on the topic of her choice. For the first homework assignment, we gave speeches without any visual aids, and for the second we used PowerPoint. Not only did these homework assignments provide great public speaking practice opportunities for everyone, myself included, but they also created a very safe forum to discuss deeply emotional topics. At first I wasn’t sure whether I should feel guilty that three out of the six staff members ended up in tears at various points during our practice sessions. But whenever we hit an emotional hurdle in a speech, the speakers showed great composure – they stopped, took a few deep breaths and maybe a drink of water, and then continued. After each of these talks, we were able to frankly discuss what had happened with the group, and I told them how impressed I was that they were brave enough to discuss such personal topics in front of an audience. None of the later presenters were deterred by the tears of her predecessors – on the contrary, the presentations got more personal as the week progressed.

One presenter spoke about her experience giving training in conflict areas inside Burma. She had to travel through the jungle by foot with a few members of an ethnic minority army for a month, watching Burmese Army movements carefully, and often rising in the middle of the night to retreat to safer cover. One member of their party stepped on a land mine and lost his leg. My colleague’s friend dressed the wound, but he was in great pain and they heard him crying all night.

Another presenter gave a talk entitled “Why My Life in Burma was So Hard,” in which she told us about leaving her family at the age of eight to move to a city and continue her education. While there, she performed domestic work for a family in exchange for room and board. When the head of the household died she had to leave, living with other families and in monasteries over a period of 10 years until she was finally so sick and malnutritioned that she was forced to quit school and move back home. Her father has been in Bangkok as a migrant worker since shortly after she initially left for school and she hasn’t seen him since.

One of the joint secretaries of our organization spoke about the needs of poor and orphaned children in the state where she grew up, citing statistics and sharing photos to illustrate her points. She made an impassioned pitch for a free primary school for children in the capital city, and presented her implementation plan for the project.

Not all of the presentations were serious. One junior staff member (who is 19 years old!) gave a presentation entitled, “Why Have All of My Boyfriends Left Me?” My PowerPoint homework assignment was about why I think my organization should have a website (we are planning to build one starting later this week, after I give a short Web Training course).

Through these sessions I learned more about my staff and their backgrounds, and I felt that all of us became closer as a result. So it was certainly a valuable experience for me, and they’ve asked me to give them a “training of trainers” (TOT) course next week, so they can teach public speaking to their students and interns as well.

The Limitations of Eggplants

This afternoon, I helped one of my co-workers write a grant proposal for an HIV/AIDS prevention training program that she wants to conduct later this year. She explained to me that many people in the villages in Burma don’t like to use condoms or don’t understand why they should use them. As part of an HIV/AIDS training course that she has given in the past, she used an anatomically correct model to demonstrate how to use a condom. She told me that previously, an NGO had given a similar training in the refugee camps, but had used an eggplant for the demonstration instead of a realistic model.

Neither the NGO nor the trainees were thrilled with the results. One of the trainees complained that she “put the condom on the eggplant like you demonstrated, but the eggplant died and I’m still having babies!”

Burma News Rollup: 4/29

Much of the news this week was about the ceasefire groups of ethnic minority tribes living on the border. Shortly after taking power, the SLORC arranged for ceasefire agreements with many of the ethnic minority insurgent groups. The junta then used the relative lull in armed conflict to more than double the size of their army over the next 10 years. The junta’s hope was to erode the capabilities of the independent ethnic armies, while putting on a veneer of cooperation with regard to the international community.

However, all of their careful planning seems to be coming apart at the seams. Last April, as a ploy to show deeper unification and support from the various ethnic groups prior to the upcoming election, the junta decided to transform their rebellion armies into a “Border Guard Force” (BGF). This arrangement required the ceasefire armies to hand over key positions of leadership to the Tatmadaw, and would effectively signal the “beginning of the end” for the independent ethnic armies.

Many of the largest armed groups who had signed ceasefire agreements are refusing to accept the regime’s terms and conditions regarding the BGF. The Wa led the way, followed quickly by the Mon and Shan groups. Yesterday the Karen, who had agreed to a recent ceasefire deal in 2007, decided to break away from the government. They “accused the junta of breaking their peace agreement by continuing to increase military activities.”

UPDATE (4/30): The Asia Times just printed a great analysis of the BGF situation.

The Prophet

One of the books on AJWS’s excellent Burma reading list is Finding George Orwell in Burma, by Emma Larkin, an American journalist. Larkin recounts her visits to the many places that Orwell inhabited while working as an officer for the British Empire in Burma. Orwell first entered the service in Burma out of feelings of patriotism, inspired like many of his countrymen by Kipling’s attitudes on empire and his poem “Mandalay” (interestingly, as Larkin relates, Kipling never visited the city; perhaps he just liked its poetic name). Over time, Orwell became increasingly disillusioned with empire, and many of his books and essays criticized it strongly.

In Burma, people sometimes refer to Orwell as “the prophet” because his writings about government abuses of power not only ring true but seem to have predicted many of the events that have come about. The Burmese believe that three of Orwell’s most famous books form a trilogy about Burma: Burmese Days, Animal Farm, and 1984.

Of course, it is said that 1984 was actually about the USSR, but many of its ideas couldn’t be more true for Burma. It is also quite telling that the book has been banned in Burma since shortly after its publication in 1949 (although Burmese Days, which criticizes the British occupation, is still widely available).

The more I learn about Burma, the more I think about Orwell and his prophetic commentary. Especially with respect to 1984 and to a certain extent Animal Farm, I often wonder: did he simply predict the events that would take place in Burma, or is the junta using his manuscripts as their playbook? There are countless examples, but here are just a few scary things that seem too Orwellian to be coincidences:

  • The names and acronyms of many of the junta’s departments seem just too deliciously Orwellian to be true. It’s almost laughable that the regime decided to name their propaganda wing the Ministry of Information. The Press Registration and Scrutiny Department is responsible for censoring books and other media. Best of all, of course, is the State Law and Order Restoration Council, or the SLORC.
  • Last month, General Than Shwe sent a letter to the “esteemed peasantry” touting many of the regime’s accomplishments and urging them to elect representatives who will continue with the status quo. The entire letter is shocking, and reminiscent of the Party’s announcements in 1984, but here’s a money quote: “Now, the nation’s rice supply has far exceeded the demand of the growing population.” Of course, as the international community is well aware, most people inside Burma face poverty and malnutrition. Many farmers have lost most of their land and are forced to buy rice on the black market in order to sell it back to the regime at lower prices in order to meet their quotas.
  • During the Ne Win period in Burma, a ubiquitous propaganda phrase expressed the fact that loyalty was valued above education: “lu gaung, lu daw.” Translated as “good man first, smart man second,” to me this just sounds too terrifyingly similar to “four legs good, two legs bad” to be coincidental (from Living Silence, p. 39).
  • In 1984, the Ministry of Truth takes on the difficult task of trying to rewrite the history books to paint a more favorable picture of the government. Similarly, the Burmese regime has been trying for years to erase independence hero Aung San from history, in order to devalue his daughter’s ties to him. Daw Aung San Suu Kyi, and to a certain extent her father Aung San, have received similar treatment to Orwell’s Emmanuel Goldstein in 1984.
  • The Ministry of Information publishes books about the country’s impressive “progress” and development, like building hospitals that don’t have doctors or supplying schools with computers but no electricity to operate them.
  • Although technological advances like 1984’s telescreen haven’t come to Burma, a low-tech Big Brother is certainly watching, through Military Intelligence spies planted among the population and the regime’s insistence that ordinary people spy on their neighbors.
  • Just as in Oceania, the Burmese regime promotes nationalism and general fear of foreign influences to an extreme degree. The size of Burma’s military (half a million people, or one per cent of the population) is incredible for a country with no external enemies.
  • The Union Solidarity and Development Association (USDA), formerly the BSPP, is basically a political party with compulsory membership  – if people refuse to join, they don’t exist and are barred from most jobs, especially in civil service. The USDA rallies don’t seem all that different from 1984’s daily televised Two Minute Hate.