Here to Make Friends

Unlike many a tortured prima donna entering a reality TV showdown, Gloria apparently did come to Thailand to make friends. She couldn’t help it, really – the Thais seem to love love love babies, and it’s probably pretty rare that a farang baby as young as ours ventures from the US all the way to Thailand. Everywhere we’ve been, hotel and restaurant staff have been eager to hold and play with the baby, usually while chanting “cha eh, cha eh,” which we’ve been told is a meaningless baby talk phrase, similar to “goo goo gah gah.” It’s become a common occurrence for the waitstaff at a restaurant to drop off our food and then offer to hold the baby for the duration of our meal – free babysitting, not a bad deal!

Black Canyon Coffee
At Black Canyon Coffee in Chiang Mai

Poon Restaurant
Mr. Poon’s wife insisted on holding Gloria, singing to her, and soothing her to sleep when she was fussy and jet lagged

German couplePoon Restaurant
Baby holders at our guest house (breakfast) and on the beach (lunch)

TreauTreau's daughter
Treau and her daughter, at our guest house in Mae Hong Son, both sang Gloria a chorus of “cha eh”s on our arrival

Guest house neighborAnother neighbor
Once the word got out at our guest house that there was a farang baby about, all of the neighbors wanted to meet her

Fern RestaurantSon and Mum Restaurant
New friends at Fern Restaurant and Son and Mum

Rom JindaGreen curry
Our server at Rom Jinda, and the bowl of green curry that she traded for our first born

Aum VegetarianWe's Restaurant
New friends at Aum Vegetarian and We’s Restaurant, both in Chiang Mai

Our friend M at Pat's
Gloria bidding adieu to her friend M at our guest house, shortly before heading to the airport to start the long journey home

Gloria Highlights, Week 19

Our second week in Thailand was a blast. On Wednesday we made our way from Phuket to Mae Hong Son, our home for four months of our sabbatical. We celebrated Thanksgiving with our Burmese friends, and we have spent many hours reconnecting (and cooking) with them.

The whole family has recovered from jet lag, though we have encountered a new nighttime challenge: sleep rolling. The past few nights we have awoken to the sound of a frustrated Globug experiencing an upside-down turtle moment (in reverse). We’re excited that she’s acquiring new skills here in Thailand, but I also hope she gets comfortable sleeping on her tummy soon (or becomes an ambi-roller).

While we have noticed a few small changes in Mae Hong Son since our departure (most notably the closures of our favorite Som Tam and espresso stands), the main difference on this trip is that we are on foot rather than biking everywhere. While it’s not as brutally hot here as it was during our last visit, the days are still around 90 degrees and it’s almost an hour walk to the office where Lauren used to volunteer. Our Globug’s full head of hair has been thinning over the past few weeks, just in time to help keep her a bit cooler during our visit.

We have a few more days to savor here in Mae Hong Son, and then we head to Chiang Mai on Friday afternoon.

Soaking up some rays during her last day on the beach

Relaxing at Lauren's office Chilling under the mango trees
Lounging at the office where Lauren volunteered for AJWS

Playing in our bed
Gloria made herself at home when we returned to our former guest house

Playing at the FernEnjoying the view from Son and Mum
Taking in the scenery at Fern Restaurant, and Son and Mum

Sunday market
Loving the food stalls at the night market

Storytime with mommy Storytime with daddy
Enjoying The Foot Book, a taste of home

Ice Cold Refreshment

At one point, we heard some sage advice about bottle-feeding: there’s no need to warm your baby’s milk if she’s willing to drink it cold. So we’ve never warmed a bottle, and Gloria has never complained. She does seem to prefer her milk closer to room temperature rather than straight out of the fridge, so I try to take it out a bit early (or avoid putting it in the fridge at all if I’m pumping milk that Kenny will feed her within an hour or so).

Today, during our final beach day here in Phuket, Gloria tried a whole new bottle-feeding experience. We had some pumped milk in the little freezer section of the mini fridge in our hotel room. We had been keeping it there because the fridge would power off when we weren’t in the room – it’s one of those guest house rooms with a master power switch activated by the room key. We decided to bring a bottle with us to the beach, but didn’t get a chance to defrost it. We figured it would melt in the hot sun soon enough anyway. Hanging out on the beach, even in the shade of our umbrella, poor Gloria was hot and sweaty and clearly very uncomfortable. So we decided to feed her a bit of the ice cold milk to see if it would help cool her down. She loved it, and guzzled the whole bottle in just a couple of minutes! I ended up making a trip back to our guest house (~20 minutes round trip) to get another frozen bottle so she could enjoy another refreshing meal a bit later.

I wish we had known this trick for some of the hot days we had this summer!

Ice cold
Sometimes milk is a dish best served cold

Gloria Highlights, Week 18

What a week! Of course, this week’s major highlight was the start of Gloria’s first international trip. We started our week in Seattle, spent a long time in transit, stayed one night in Chiang Mai, and are currently sunning ourselves on Nai Yang Beach, Phuket.

Baby G has been a rock star traveler so far, although she was certainly thrown for a loop by the time change. She’s been waking up several times a night, clearly convinced that it’s daytime and wanting to play/eat/cuddle/etc. Fortunately it hasn’t been too difficult to soothe her back to sleep on each waking, but the fractured sleep has definitely prolonged my jet lag recovery. It seems to be getting progressively better, so hopefully she’ll be fully adjusted within a couple more days.

In other news, she has turned into a drool monster and she constantly wants to munch on her hands. Our pediatrician warned us that these signs would be coming soon – and that they wouldn’t necessarily imply teething. Still, I can’t help but wonder – is she teething?

OMG, I can’t believe we’re going to Thailand!

Good morning Chiang Mai
Good morning Chiang Mai

Three Kings
Three Kings Monument in Chiang Mai

Catching a nap in the carrier at Chiang Mai airport, en route to Phuket

Baby G finds her thumb
Baby G has been gnawing on her hands for weeks, but on our flight to Phuket she found the elusive holy grail of hand munching – the thumb!


Naptime on the beach
Naptime on the beach was a nice theory; but who can sleep when there are so many new things to see?

First dip in the oceanFirst dip in the ocean
Taking her first dip in the ocean

Our Babe in Thailand

Today we are leaving to help Gloria fulfill her fortune:


We fly to Thailand this afternoon, via Seoul. After a night in Chiang Mai we head south to spend a few days on our favorite beach in Southeast Asia, Nai Yang. We are then spending the bulk of our time in Mae Hong Son reconnecting with friends, enjoying the slow pace of life, and gorging on delicious Thai stir friestropical fruits (including mango and sticky rice), and spicy Burmese hill tribe food.

Gloria going to Chiang Mai
Guess where I’m going?

Top 10 Beaches of Our Sabbatical

We wrote this list while lounging around on the beach in Zanzibar, just to make you hate us. The criteria are totally subjective and not documented anywhere, but involve some combination of most beautiful setting, best food, best amenities, and best overall vibe.

In order from most to least amazing:

  1. Mandrem, Goa, India – we spent a week on Mandrem being beach bums at the end of our stay in India.
  2. Nai Yang, Phuket, Thailand – Nai Yang was so beautiful we had to go twice, first at the beginning of our Southeast Asia jaunt in January, and then for a long weekend trip with Seema and Mark in April.
  3. Galu Beach, Mombasa, Kenya – an extremely laid-back spot to kite surf – or not – and enjoy beautiful water and endless soft sand.
  4. Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam – we spent four nights on Long Beach in February, before we started our volunteer assignments in Thailand, and we ate chili lemongrass shrimp every day.
  5. Khlong Nin, Ko Lanta, Thailand – we spent four nights at Khlong Nin beach on Ko Lanta in January, directly after our stay in Phuket. It was a beautiful setting, but not quite as amazing an overall package as Nai Yang.
  6. Kendwa, Zanzibar, Tanzania – it wasn’t easy to get there on foot from Nungwi, but it was worth the trek, as it offered a beautiful stretch of relatively-secluded beach.
  7. Nungwi, Zanzibar, Tanzania – we spent four nights on Nungwi, in a hotel room with an incredible ocean view. Unfortunately there isn’t much beach to speak of at low tide, but Kendwa and East Nungwi, nearby, offer good swimming opportunities.
  8. Khlong Dao, Ko Lanta, Thailand – we finished up our January visit to Ko Lanta with two nights at Khlong Dao, which was nice but not as secluded or as pretty as Khlong Nin. We did find one of my favorite Thai restaurants in the world at Khlong Dao – Thai Is-San.
  9. Nha Trang, Vietnam – the beach was not as nice as we remembered it from our first visit in 2007, but the tropical fruits are still the best I’ve ever tasted.
  10. Matemwe, Zanzibar, Tanzania – fascinating tidal flat landscape at low tide, pretty (but skinny) stretch of beach at high tide. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it as a place to stay, but it’s certainly worth a day trip.

If it makes you hate us any less, our tans will most certainly have faded by the time we arrive back in Seattle on September 22, and we do not have any more beach time scheduled between now and then.

Phuket Food Phorn

Nai Yang not only has a beautiful beach, but also is home to some of our favorite restaurants in Thailand. We were really excited introduce Mark and Seema to Sumalee and Mr. Poon. Some highlights:

Fruit shakes at Sumalee's
Mango+pineapple and mango+banana fruit shakes at Sumalee’s

Seema showing off panang goong at Sumalee's
Seema showing off Sumalee’s awesome panang goong

Mr. Poon cooking up cashew nut chicken
Mr. Poon demonstrating how to make chicken and cashew nuts

Gathering over phad prik kiang goong at Poon restaurant
Gathering around course #3 at Poon Restaurant

Lauren and Seema with salads at Sumalee
The ladies with delicious spicy salads (green mango and glass noodles with seafood) for our final dinner at Sumalee

Phretty Pheople in Phuket

We had a fantastic weekend on the beach with Seema, who was finishing off her two-week SE Asia vacation, and Mark, another AJWS volunteer stationed in southern Thailand.

A few photos to make our Seattle friends jealous:

Seema with her big bag o’ purchases from Chatuchak Weekend Market in Bangkok, and Lauren and Kenny using one of Mr. Poon’s beach chairs

Seattleites on the beach

Seema collected a number of shells and dead sea urchins

This is the only picture of all four of us. We were walking through the Indigo Pearl hotel on our way out to the beach.

Kenny and I enjoy long walks on the beach

Mark and Kenny, ready for a delicious meal at Sumalee

Holiday on the Beach

We are setting out at 6am tomorrow to meet up with Seema for a weekend in Phuket. The itinerary is a little bit ridiculous: 5.5-hour bus ride to Chiang Mai, flight from Chiang Mai to Bangkok, another flight from Bangkok to Phuket. So we’ll have a full day of travel on each end and two days on the beach; we must really love Seema or something. ;) Fortunately our favorite Phuket beach, Nai Yang, is only a 5-minute drive from the airport. Looking forward to playing in the water and panang curry at Sumalee’s!

RE: Tourist Spicy

Last time we were in Thailand, I complained that it was difficult to find anyone who would prepare spicy food for their Caucasian clientele. Perhaps we were just visiting the wrong restaurants last time around, because over the past week on Phuket and Ko Lanta, finding tongue-numbingly hot Thai food has not been a problem. Spice level certainly varies by restaurant, but we’ve found that if we ask with authority for the food to be prepared spicy, it will always be at least adequately spiced (minimum of 3-4 stars on a decent Seattle Thai restaurant’s scale). Sumalee’s 6-star spicy mango salad on Phuket was probably the spiciest thing I’ve ever eaten (with the possible exception of when I decide to eat Indian green chilies raw for no apparent reason besides stupidity).

Super spicy tom yum goong at Cook Kai on Ko Lanta