It’s My Life

As promised, here’s a description of my typical day volunteering in Thailand. My day starts in very much the same way as Lauren’s typical day, though I leave the house 10 minutes after her for my 2 minute “commute” around the corner.

One of my NGO staff lives in the office (seriously, his bedroom is upstairs), so he’s always there when I arrive at 9. The rest of the staff trickle in over the next 1.5 hours. The first thing I’ll do in the morning is check the latest Burma-related news. The rest of my morning is spent working on English lesson plans and helping my co-workers create English content for the paper. Their budding webmaster lives in the next village and often works remotely, but if he’s in the office I’ll help him with the current overhaul of their website (actually 3 websites once you include all the different languages).

Often, one of my co-workers will make “breakfast” between 10 and 11:30 (today “breakfast” was at 14:45). These are rice-based meals that include lots of vegetables; usually a soup, a stir fry, and a spicy dip/chutney/salsa. Sometimes we’ll have lunch in the office as well, otherwise I take a walk down the street and grab a tasty Thai, Burmese, or Shan meal for about 30B (< $1). The afternoon is similar to the morning, except hotter.

On Monday and Friday I’m out the door and heading home by 17:00. The rest of the week I teach English class to five of my coworkers from 17:00-18:00, which usually runs a little over, and I’m home by 18:30.

Unsurprisingly, I spend my evenings in a very similar manner to my wife. We’re managing to keep each other entertained, and it’s quite relaxing being in a small town for a few months.

A Day in the Life

A few of our friends back home have been asking what a typical day looks like for us now that we’re settled into our tiny town in Thailand. It’s been two weeks and we certainly have developed a routine. Here’s my description, Kenny’s will follow.

We try to get up before 7am for a morning workout (usually some yoga and some weights). I’d love to say that this happens every day, but it’s probably more like every other. After shower, contacts, brushing teeth, etc., we throw together a quick breakfast. This usually consists of oatmeal, fruit, and soymilk (we can heat up water for oatmeal using our electric kettle) or yogurt and fruit. Then by 8:45 I need to run out the door and head to work.

My commute consists of a 10-minute bike ride to the outskirts of town, and I arrive at the office right around 9am. The morning bike ride is easy – it’s mostly downhill and the mornings here are nice and cool. Usually when I arrive, someone brings me tea or coffee, and I spend the morning either in meetings with the NGO staff or working on training materials or grant proposals in the computer room. We only have three computers to accommodate all of the NGO staff, interns, and volunteers, but we make it work. I have learned to do a lot of my work offline with pen and paper and type it up later when the computers are free (I’ve already filled one notebook and I’m starting on another).

Around 12:30, someone comes down from the kitchen area to let me know that lunch is ready. We all eat lunch together, sitting in a circle on mats around the floor, sharing food “family-style” from communal bowls. Everyone gets a huge bowl of rice, and then we can help ourselves to our share of the day’s selections, which are mostly vegetarian and all fantastic. There are usually four or more different dishes, and at least one of them features leaves that I had never tried before this trip to Thailand (mango leaves, mustard leaves, pumpkin leaves, etc.). The only truly unusual thing I’ve tried so far is red ant eggs (!) – these were served mixed into a chicken egg omelet, and added more texture than flavor.

After the lunch plates are cleared, we settle into more hard work for the afternoon. At some point, someone usually brings me a snack, like a huge plate of watermelon, which is just the thing on these sweltering hot afternoons. I usually work until about 5 or 5:30, and then hop on my bike and head back to town. The afternoon bike ride is much more difficult than the morning one – there are a few non-trivial hills, and it is hot outside. If Kenny is teaching English class (i.e., if it’s a Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday) I stop by his office to help him teach the end of his lesson, otherwise we meet at our guest house and then go settle in at one of our few typical dinner spots.

There really isn’t anything to do in the evenings in this town, so post-dinner activities usually consist of reading, photo-editing, and blogging. Lately we’ve been catching up on some Babajob code reviews and corresponding with some NGOs in Africa about our next volunteer gig, which we are planning for June. We also compare notes from the day and offer each other advice on how to solve various challenges in the office. Overall, it’s a relatively relaxing routine, and it’s quite nice to have some down time built into it.

Day at the Farm

My NGO has a small farm where they grow some of the vegetables they eat (I have already been treated to many of them, as many of our lunches at the office have been sourced from the farm). Most of the farm chores happen in the early morning or evening, when it’s not too hot. Yesterday, Kenny and I got to help with some of the watering and harvesting. At the end, we were sent home with handfuls of freshly-picked lettuce, spring onions, and cilantro.

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Kenny watering the plants

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Redirecting the irrigation canals

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Long beans on their trellises

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Washing spring onions

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Showing off my beautiful gifts from the farm

This morning, we made a hearty salad for breakfast using our farm bounty. It was a great start to the day, especially as we had a long bike ride planned. We used:

  • Farm greens (lettuce, spring onions, cilantro)
  • Rose Apple
  • Orange
  • Diced shallot
  • Red chili
  • Oil
  • Lime juice

It was delicious, and pretty too:

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Our fresh farm salad

Goumi

My coworkers introduced me to this fruit the other day, but only knew the name in Burmese. Hence the title of this post was going to be “red mystery fruit”, but some hunting around Wikipedia proved fruitful. I believe we have correctly identified the mystery sour red fruit as a goumi, also known as cherry silverberry. They look like oblong cherry tomatoes, with flecks of silver on their skin that make them slightly scaly. Wikipedia describes the taste as “juicy and edible, with an acidic taste,” which was about how I experienced it at work.

This morning we picked up a bag of them (which included the obligatory chili-sugar dip) at the market. We had a little fun with the presentation, practicing our fruit carving to make a little bowl for our chili-sugar dip. Digging in, all of the moisture disappeared from our mouths. It was one of the most sour foods I’ve ever had. Later I read, “the fruit must be fully ripe before it can be enjoyed raw, if even slightly under-ripe it will be quite astringent.” Quite astringent, indeed!

Goumi in bag
Goumi in their market packaging

Goumi cleaned up for presentation
Out of the bag, decorated for an attractive snack

Dried Bean and Spicy Green Salad

My NGO co-workers taught me how to make this salad on Thursday. This morning, Lauren and I tried it out ourselves, since chopping and tossing a cold salad is one of the few forms of “cooking” allowed at our guest house. Unfortunately, we don’t know the name of the beans that we used, but we got them from the local market and we think they might be soybeans. We’re not so sure what the leaves are either. Outside of Thailand, you could probably substitute arugula or mustard greens for the leaves; they had a bit of a spicy flavor. You could use nuts instead of the beans, or try an Asian grocery for the real thing.

Ingredients

  • Dry roasted local beans
  • Chilies
  • Shallots
  • Some kind of spicy green leaves
  • Tomatoes
  • Soybean oil

Instructions
Finely chop chilies and shallots. Chop tomatoes and leaves coarsely. Toss all ingredients with soybean oil. Eat!

Bean salad
Breakfast

Soybeans?
Soybeans?

The English Doctor

Part of my NGO assignment is to conduct a thrice-weekly English class for the NGO staff. It’s been a fun way to learn more about the people I work with, and I’ve been given full leeway on lesson plans. Of course, I’ve never before taught English classes, so the task of constructing the first few lesson plans was a bit intimidating.  It’s an interesting task, as they all have basic familiarity with English but have had minimal exposure (if any) to Westerners and native English speakers.

Conveniently, another volunteer from Lauren’s NGO pointed me to the Curriculum Project, a set of English learning materials developed specifically for my target audience:

The Curriculum Project was established in 2001 to work with senior secondary (Post-10) schools and adult education programs along the Thai/Burma border. The Curriculum Project provides curricula, materials and teacher training to further education and adult education projects run by Burmese exile, refugee and migrant communities on the Burma border.

I’ve still constructed personalized lesson plans for my NGO, but their General English modules have provided me with a good backbone of content to leverage.

Elbow Grease Peanut Butter

When we were in India we made all kinds of things from scratch, including peanut butter in the mixie. But since we didn’t want to fork over 1000 baht for an electric blender that we’d then have to ditch when we leave Thailand, Lauren and I thought we might just have to go without our peanut butter fix for a few months.

The other day I was munching on some roasted peanuts from the local market and noticed a mortar and pestle at work. I wondered whether I could put these two things together. I held back on my experimental urge… until this afternoon.

Prompted by our weekend discovery of a decent locally-baked whole wheat bread, I took the pestle to the mortar and crushed and re-crushed 100g of peanuts. After about 15 minutes of pounding (and some inquisitive looks from my co-workers), I had a mortar full of handmade peanut butter!

Hand grinded peanut butter

As my co-workers all took a sample, I explained to them the English term “peanut butter” and some of its usages as a spread in Western foods. They still thought I was crazy, but they liked the peanut butter and next time I’ll bring in some bread as a prop for a future English lesson. On my first taste I also realized that there had been a little residual crushed chili in the mortar, adding a touch of spiciness. This was accidental, but tasty, and next time I’ll likely add a small dried chili to the mix.

Tonight we bought a loaf of the whole-wheat bread from the night market and celebrated with a post-dinner snack:

Fresh as can be peanut butter snack
Lauren satisfying her peanut butter cravings for the first time in six weeks

International Literracy Day

Seen at a library in Northern Thailand:

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Go Jump in the River

After a delicious meal of snake in banana leaves, Lauren’s co-workers invited us to continue the celebration with a swim in the nearby river. Since it’s “almost” Songkran (i.e. about 6 weeks away), they’ve started setting up structures on the river for families to camp out on during the week-long throwing of water. Or so we’ve been told. We’ve yet to experience Songkran but have been told it will be wet. There’s nothing better than a river swim on these balmy 32°C days. The river is an easy bike ride from where we live, and we’ll be sure to take advantage of this as we enter the “hot” season (we’ve been told to expect average highs over 40°C come April).

Lauren in front of the Songkran huts
Lauren posing in front of the Songkran huts

Swimming in the river
Frolicking in the river

Snake in Banana Leaves

My co-workers invited us over for an office party yesterday, and they promised a particularly enticing entree: snake in banana leaves. I was a bit uncertain about eating snake, but had promised to at least try it. When we arrived, we learned that we were actually the targets of an elaborate language misunderstanding turned practical joke; we would instead be treated to a “snack” cooked in banana leaves. The snack started out as a mixture of spring onions, shallots, garlic, oil, rice powder, and water in a large bowl. My co-workers then taught us how to assemble envelopes using the banana leaves that they had been harvesting (from the office property) and cutting all morning.

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Volunteers and other assorted expats assembling “snake” packets

Here Kenny models the process of assembling a banana leaf packet:

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Step 1: stack a small banana leaf piece on top of a larger one
Step 2: spoon a dollop of snake mixture on top of the leaves
Step 3: use your fingers to make a lengthwise crease in the banana leaves

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Step 4: fold the sides to make a banana leaf envelope

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Step 5: hold the assembled envelope in one hand and use the other to pierce it with a half toothpick (for conservation purposes)
Step 6 (not shown): use scissors to trim excess banana leaf off the top of the envelope

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Step 7: steam

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Step 8: enjoy with fried garlic, spring onion root, coriander, and dried red chilies (one chili per bite, we were instructed)

During the steaming process, the rice mixture solidifies and the result is like an Asian tamale. We each ate two of them plain, and they were delicious. Then my co-workers taught us how you are supposed to eat them: garnish with garlic, chilies, and other condiments. This added deliciousness prompted each of us to eat about eight more. :)