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Gorilla Tracking

Posted on August 23, 2010 in Uganda by kenny. 0 Comments Tags: gorilla tracking, hiking, national park, Uganda, wildlife.

If there’s anything that will motivate you to wake up at 5:30AM the day after a killer hike, it’s the prospect of gorilla tracking. For many tourists, this is the reason to enter Uganda, and needs to be arranged well in advance as there are only 40 permits available per day (8 permits each for the five gorilla families in Bwindi National Park). The gorilla families have all been habituated, which involves a six-year process of slowly exposing them to humans in a non-threatening way. The tracking process can range anywhere from one to six hours until you reach the gorillas, depending on the family you’re tracking and the time of year. While the guides do not guarantee that you will find the gorillas, they have only failed once in the six years since habituation.

It took us two hours to reach Bwindi National Park from Kisoro, along a very bumpy road. After a brief orientation on what to expect, and outfitting us with walking sticks and porters, it was time to find gorillas! The trailhead for the Nkuringo family is at the top of a ridge overlooking rolling farmland, and we descended rapidly towards the forest. We followed a short trail to its end, and then the guides made their own path through the bush, hacking away with their machetes.

In the forest, looking for gorillas

Helping realize our trail potential

The UWA does their best to involve the local community in the wildlife preservation efforts. As part of this, they use local high school students as porters-for-hire. They follow an equitable rotation process and the porters use the money to fund their education. By helping the local economy, the UWA has found that the community is motivated to actively protect the gorillas and their habitat.

Our porter, Hillary, was a really nice kid who was on his first gorilla tracking expedition. Other than the excited gleam in his eyes, you would never have guessed that this was his first time as a porter. He was helping blaze the trail by breaking off thorny branches and clearing other obstacles, and there were multiple times when his steady hand helped Lauren and me up and down the hillsides.

We descended into a valley, crossed over a small stream, and after about 90 minutes we arrived at the area where the gorilla family was enjoying a late breakfast. The guides asked us to break for a few minutes, grab a quick snack and then hand over our bags and walking sticks to avoid threatening the gorillas. We then turned a corner and had our first gorilla sighting – a toddler munching on the moss of a tree directly in front of us:

It was awesome to hang out with the gorillas. They are very chill (not like the crazy chimps), and I could have spent the entire day watching them munch on vegetation and play with each other. We did snap some photos and videos, but we spent most of our time in the moment, somewhat awestruck by these creatures that share 97% of our DNA. One of the silverbacks was chilling in the sun (he looked like he had eaten well), a momma gorilla was cruising around with her child on her back, and others were swinging among the trees.

Little ones at play

Bringing silver back

After about 30 minutes, the family migrated to another part of the forest and we followed, creating more fresh trails on our way. Our guides told us that since they haven’t had a lot of rain lately the gorillas need to visit a few locations to fully sate their appetites. Along the way, we had a few very close encounters, with the gorillas almost within arms reach. We settled into a small clearing, and two of the blackbacks (younger males – they become silverbacks around age 14) walked right through our group to what I suppose was a particularly tasty bush.

All too soon, our guide informed us that our hour with the gorillas was up. Right at that moment, a silverback barreled through the trees into the edge of the clearing! He paused there as if on cue, and then 20 seconds later gave a little shrug and left us. It was a fond farewell and a very memorable ending to an amazing hour with our cousins.

Christmas (yes, he was born on Christmas) enjoying leaves for lunch

Adios, said the silverback

Little Vid does Rwanda

Posted on August 22, 2010 in Uganda by lauren. 0 Comments Tags: hiking, little vid, rwanda, Uganda.

Little Vid also made it up the mountain and into Rwanda without a visa:

Little Vid resting on a rock in Rwanda. She can see Kenny and our mountain guides across the lake in Uganda.

More Little Vid here.

Kenny vs. the Volcano

Posted on August 22, 2010 in Uganda by kenny. 0 Comments Tags: gorilla tracking, hiking, Uganda.

Today was possibly the most physically challenging day of my life. It was definitely the highest I’ve been outside of an airplane. Here’s how it went:

Act I: Get up and go

We arise at 5:30AM for a hearty breakfast and 6:30AM departure for Muhavura Volcano, the third highest peak in Uganda. It’s a 30 minute bumpy ride on a gravel road to the parking lot.

Our driver takes us on a moderately strenuous 20-minute hike to the trailhead. In the distance looms our destination.

Act II: Free Gorilla Tracking

At base camp, we register with the UWA, and are introduced to a park ranger named George, our guide for the day. George outfits us with bamboo walking sticks and we head out along an old farmer’s trail.

A few hundred meters in, we are joined by Francis, a solidly built man with an easy smile and a rifle who settles into a permanent spot as rear guard. George tells us how there are many buffalo in this area, as well as antelope and even gorillas! However, the closest we come to the animals is their poop on the trail. The farmer’s trail winds steadily up towards the volcano, and we are fully warmed up as we approach the next trail marker.

Act III: The Virgin Forest

On the second stage of the hike we follow an amazingly well-groomed trail through leafy terrain. There are lots of switchbacks and stairs that have been carved into the trail by the UWA, which quicken our ascent. Overall it’s a relaxing hike that reminds me a bit of Washington State. I am feeling pretty good when we stop for a snack at the first “rest hut.”

Act IV: Adjusting to Altitude

As we enter the ericaceous zone, the trail becomes more slippery and gravelly. As we clear the tree-line we are treated to fantastic views of the two nearby volcanoes – Gahinga and Sabinyo. George points out sections of Rwanda and the Congo, though the mist prevents any notable photography. The scenery is amazing, and the hike is exhilarating, but then…

About an hour into this section of the hike, I become a bit light headed. Breathing is harder and it takes all of my willpower to simply put one foot in front of the other. It feels like this part of the hike is never-ending. Finally, after what seems like an eternity, we arrive at the second rest hut.

Act V: The Final Push

I take awhile to recover at the second rest hut. Inhaling my tuna sandwich, biscuits, and a liter of water certainly helps my disposition (and my pounding headache). George is a champ at motivation, and assures me that we have about an hour more to go, though we will take as much time as necessary.

The rest helps, and I’m able to enjoy the alpine foliage. Since this volcano is capped by a crater lake, the upper-most part of the mountain is unusually lush. About 30 minutes into this section I’m hit again by a massive headache, but a quick rest (and three Advil) knocks it into submission.

One of many beautiful views of Gahinga and Sabinyo volcanoes from the sub-alpine belt, with the Congo in the distance

Act VI: Rwanda without a Visa

The summit! I did not think I would make it and I am ecstatic. George tells us that we are not allowed to rest until we visit Rwanda. Turns out that the Uganda-Rwanda border bisects the alpine lake here at the summit. We take a spin around Rwanda, enjoy the views, and bask in the sunshine. Hallelujah!

Total elevation gain: 1823m (~5981 ft). Total ascent time: 5 1/2 hours.

Basking in the mountain-top sun

In Rwanda without a visa!

We made it!

Epilogue

The difficulty level descending the mountain was commensurate with the ascent. By the time we arrived at base camp, I was immensely excited to see man-made structures on the horizon. We rested and added comments to the guest book, and then descended through farms to our car; a final kilometer that felt like three.

After today’s trials, I was a bit apprehensive about our Mount Meru climb in mid-September. However, we just re-read our itinerary, and there is never more than 1000m gain per day, the majority of which is one-way (outside of our summit day). It will be challenging, but after conquering Muhavura I am confident that we can handle it. Lauren and I are both exhausted, but also on a high from our achievement. And I expect we’ll sleep quite well, which is helpful as we leave for gorilla tracking at 6AM tomorrow!

More photos from our hike available here.

Going to the Gorillas

Posted on August 20, 2010 in Uganda by lauren. 0 Comments Tags: gorilla tracking, hiking, Uganda.

We are headed out on yet another weekend trip, this time all the way to the southwestern corner of Uganda, and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, best known for its population of 340 gorillas. We had debated amongst ourselves for a while about whether or not we would go gorilla tracking during our time in East Africa. On the one hand, it’s an extremely expensive activity, and the maximum time spent with the gorillas is only one hour. On the other, you get to see gorillas! We’ve heard several accounts from people who have been, and count it among the best experiences of their lives. I also hope that the large sum of money we’ve paid in advance to the UWA will help with gorilla preservation efforts.

This trip will also include a one-day volcano hiking excursion near Bwindi, which will hopefully be good training for our Mt. Meru climb next month.

When we return to Kampala, we’ll only have one evening here before our office is sending us out to the field for a CKW training in Kapchorwa, near the Kenyan border. I am extremely excited to get out and meet some of the CKWs we’ve been hearing about all summer. It should certainly make the project feel more personal.

I’m not necessarily looking forward to so much time in a car over the coming week, but Ira Glass’s storytelling should help make it bearable.

Top 10 Beaches of Our Sabbatical

Posted on August 16, 2010 in Sabbatical by lauren. 0 Comments Tags: beach, galu beach, goa, india, island, kenya, khlong nin, mandrem, matemwe, mombasa, nai yang beach, nha trang, nungwi, phu quoc, phuket, tanzania, thailand, vietnam, zanzibar.

We wrote this list while lounging around on the beach in Zanzibar, just to make you hate us. The criteria are totally subjective and not documented anywhere, but involve some combination of most beautiful setting, best food, best amenities, and best overall vibe.

In order from most to least amazing:

Mandrem, Goa, India – we spent a week on Mandrem being beach bums at the end of our stay in India.
Nai Yang, Phuket, Thailand – Nai Yang was so beautiful we had to go twice, first at the beginning of our Southeast Asia jaunt in January, and then for a long weekend trip with Seema and Mark in April.
Galu Beach, Mombasa, Kenya – an extremely laid-back spot to kite surf – or not – and enjoy beautiful water and endless soft sand.
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam – we spent four nights on Long Beach in February, before we started our volunteer assignments in Thailand, and we ate chili lemongrass shrimp every day.
Khlong Nin, Ko Lanta, Thailand – we spent four nights at Khlong Nin beach on Ko Lanta in January, directly after our stay in Phuket. It was a beautiful setting, but not quite as amazing an overall package as Nai Yang.
Kendwa, Zanzibar, Tanzania – it wasn’t easy to get there on foot from Nungwi, but it was worth the trek, as it offered a beautiful stretch of relatively-secluded beach.
Nungwi, Zanzibar, Tanzania – we spent four nights on Nungwi, in a hotel room with an incredible ocean view. Unfortunately there isn’t much beach to speak of at low tide, but Kendwa and East Nungwi, nearby, offer good swimming opportunities.
Khlong Dao, Ko Lanta, Thailand – we finished up our January visit to Ko Lanta with two nights at Khlong Dao, which was nice but not as secluded or as pretty as Khlong Nin. We did find one of my favorite Thai restaurants in the world at Khlong Dao – Thai Is-San.
Nha Trang, Vietnam – the beach was not as nice as we remembered it from our first visit in 2007, but the tropical fruits are still the best I’ve ever tasted.
Matemwe, Zanzibar, Tanzania – fascinating tidal flat landscape at low tide, pretty (but skinny) stretch of beach at high tide. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it as a place to stay, but it’s certainly worth a day trip.

If it makes you hate us any less, our tans will most certainly have faded by the time we arrive back in Seattle on September 22, and we do not have any more beach time scheduled between now and then.

iMANi

Posted on August 15, 2010 in Uganda by lauren. 0 Comments Tags: film, kampala, Uganda.

Before we left the office on Friday afternoon, our AppLab co-worker and friend, Jill, informed us about the Maisha African Film Festival, which was on all weekend at the National Theatre, just a 20-minute walk from our apartment. The opening night feature film was entitled iMANi, and set here in Kampala. It had won several awards and looked like it would be worth seeing.

Kenny and I have certainly been a bit reclusive on the weekends we actually stay in Kampala, so we decided the film was a good excuse to get out and about on a Friday evening, and to hang out with Jill, of course. Unfortunately we realized that we had the wrong phone number for her, but we left the apartment at 6:45 for the 7:30 showing, and figured we’d grab a quick bite across the street at Masala Chaat House and hopefully bump into Jill in the theatre. Dinner was quick, fortunately, and we made it over to the theatre with a few minutes to spare… except when we arrived we learned that the theatre was full. Oops. Apparently the tickets were free and the line started forming two hours in advance.

So it turned into yet another anti-social night for us in Kampala. We stopped at the Nakumatt for a few groceries, and then returned home and fired off a quick apologetic email to Jill.

This morning, Kenny received an SMS from Jill asking whether we’d like to join her for the film showing at 10:30. Which film showing, we asked? Apparently the projector had malfunctioned after 30 minutes of the iMANi screening on Friday evening, and it had been rescheduled for Sunday morning. Sweet. It turned out that our poor timing on Friday evening hadn’t been so unfortunate after all.

The film shows a day in the life of three characters, with their stories interleaved: a housekeeper from Entebbe who works in the home of a well-to-do Kampala family; a rehabilitated child soldier in Gulu; and a member of Break Dance Project Uganda who works with street kids. Each character faces a difficult situation with which he/she must cope before the day is over. The dialogue is an amalgam of Luganda, Kiswahili, and English, with English subtitles throughout, and the soundtrack is fantastic. Some of the script seemed a bit cheesy, but it’s highly possible that the dialogue suffered in the translation to English. And while the plot itself wasn’t entirely unpredictable, it was genuine, and for the most part, uplifting.

After the showing, Philip Buyi, who plays Armstrong, the break dancer, answered a few questions from the audience. One audience member started a very unexpected line of questioning, asking Philip why his character wasn’t tougher, more aggressive. And then he seemed to follow up with a criticism of Philip’s own personality, asking why he spoke so softly on stage and did not project a more “manly” presence. It was uncomfortable for many of us in the audience, who are perhaps more familiar with the film festival scene and more conventional audience questions. But Philip handled the heckler well, and did not seem to take offense. It was a reminder that the arts scene here in Kampala is quite nascent, and perhaps its connoisseurs are still a bit uninitiated. On the other hand, I hope that even as the arts scene grows more sophisticated, the honesty and lack of pretension can remain.

Interestingly, Charles Mudede of The Stranger reviewed the film in June (perhaps it was at SIFF?), and the review is currently featured on the front page of the iMANi website. Ah, Seattle. We’ll be there in five weeks.

Headline of the Day

Posted on August 13, 2010 in Uganda by kenny. 0 Comments Tags: kampala, news, Uganda.

Courtesy of this morning’s edition of the New Vision:

..I guess the journalist’s source on this one was from a local séance. I wonder if they also confessed to where they buried the survivors?

Little Vid Goes to the Beach

Posted on August 11, 2010 in Kenya by lauren. 0 Comments Tags: beach, galu beach, island, kenya, little vid, matemwe, nungwi, tanzania, zanzibar.

Little Vid enjoyed our 10-day beach holiday almost as much as Kenny and I did, especially because we got to celebrate her namesake’s birthday in Kenya.

Little Vid enjoying the beach at Kenyaways

A little French girl on the beach tried to steal Little Vid when she saw her perched on the camel’s head

Enjoying a glass of the house red for Vidya’s birthday

Lounging on our rooftop deck in Stone Town

Enjoying a vegetarian lunch thali in Stone Town

Somewhere over the rainbow is Nungwi Beach, Zanzibar

Checking out the strange environs at Matemwe Beach, Zanzibar

As always, you can follow Little Vid’s adventures here.

Day Trip to Matemwe

Posted on August 11, 2010 in Tanzania by lauren. 0 Comments Tags: beach, island, matemwe, tanzania, zanzibar.

For our final day in Zanzibar, we struck a deal with Langi Langi’s driver to combine a morning outing to Matemwe Beach, on the east coast, with our airport transfer. The LP had described Matemwe as a peaceful, secluded stretch of sand with beautiful water. Based on our Zanzibar experience thus far, we also assumed that the beach itself would change drastically with the tides, and we were not mistaken. We arrived at low tide, when a vast stretch of tidal flat was exposed and the water was between knee and waist deep. Behind the tidal flat, about 500m away from the beach, was a long skinny sandbar, where the waves were breaking at low tide.

We decided to wade out to the sandbar, which looked like a nice spot to sit and have a game of Scrabble. It turned out to be a slightly difficult slog, as the ocean floor was littered with obstacles such as rocks and sea urchins, but it was also surprisingly rewarding. Along the way, we observed women harvesting seaweed and tending their seaweed farms, and saw a beautiful red starfish below the water’s surface. The locals seemed impressed that we expended the effort to cross, and on a few occasions attempted to communicate with us, albeit with very limited success. Unfortunately my Kiswahili is a bit rusty.

On the other side, we saw locals collecting sea creatures, and experienced a dramatic other-worldly landscape, with exposed rocks, coral, and spongy seaweed growing on the surface. We shot a few photos, relaxed, and played Scrabble until we feared that the rising tide might strand us. Besides, our stomachs were starting to rumble in anticipation of lunch. So we commenced our trudge back across the shallow water to the main part of the beach, where we sat down for lunch at the posh Sunshine Hotel, as recommended by our driver. While we lunched, the tide came in quickly, and the entire tidal flat, seaweed farms and all, was completely submerged before we finished.

After lunch, it was onward to the airport, and goodbye to Zanzibar. But we’ll be back in Tanzania in exactly one month.

Harvesting seaweed

Wading out to the sand bar at low tide

The sand bar at low tide

Pretty red starfish

Typical Zanzibari wooden dhow, seen from lunch at high tide

White Sands Beach Hotel (Kendwa, Zanzibar)

Posted on August 10, 2010 in Tanzania by kenny. 0 Comments Tags: beach, food, island, review, tanzania, zanzibar.

Rating:

While we ate quite well in Stone Town, most of our meals on Zanzibar’s beaches were somewhat mediocre. The one major exception was a beachfront restaurant in Kendwa, at the White Sands Beach Hotel. The atmosphere at the restaurant is pretty basic, but the location is excellent, with nice views of the Indian Ocean from the outermost tables (where we were sitting).

On the waitress’s recommendation we ordered the prawn coconut curry, which was stupendous. The prawns were by far the largest we had in Zanzibar, and the tomato-based coconut curry was spicy and reminiscent of south India.

We also had the catch of the day, red snapper, which was seasoned with local spices and grilled. The fish was tender (not overcooked like much of the fish we had this week), and served with rice and tomato chutney.

If you’re on Kendwa beach (or at nearby Nungwi and sick of the same-old, same-old), definitely stop by the White Sands Beach Hotel and sample the coconut curry. Your tummy will thank you.

Amazing prawn coconut curry

Grilled red snapper

White Sands Beach Hotel
Kendwa, Zanzibar, Tanzania
+255 (0)777-411326